Yes, this is New York City

I'm a beach snob.  No doubt about it.   For over five decades I've spent the summer, or at least a part of it on Nantucket Island.  I stayed on Sardinia one August - before it was stylish -  enjoyed a year on the Seychelles Island - way, way before the Duke and Duchess of Cambridge just had to have their honeymoon there.  For years I've imagined - no, really believed - that when the wind was just right I could smell the ocean from my downtown Manhattan apartment.   You realize that the Atlantic Ocean is just a subway ride away to Coney Island, Brighton Beach - or Rockaway.  So, this summer, when I've been spending more time than usual in the City - I gave in.   I got on the A train and went out to Rockaway Beach.  I went with a couple of friends who were interested in Rockaway because of  all the recent press about the food scene there.   A few very good restaurants (from ALL the City's boroughs) bid, and won the right to lease the concession stands at three different areas of the beach.

We got off the A train at  Broad Channel then waited for the shuttle to take us to the 106th street stop - it stops at 86th and 96th streets as well -  at Rockaway Beach.  We figured that we'd start checking out the concession stands there and then walk down the boardwalk to the others.

We had an hors d'oeuvre of fried, sweet plantains covered with salty cheese, and hibiscus ice tea from Caracas Arepa Bar .  The Rockaway branch of the East Village restaurant has a good selection of the same Venezuelan specialities that gave them their well-deserved reputation.   One of my friends ordered an exceptionally good iced coffee from  Caracas' neighbor  Blue Bottle Coffee.

We walked 10 blocks down the boardwalk to the 96th street concession - the largest of the 3.   Although we were tempted by all the vendors we all chose the same same fried fish sandwich from Motorboat and the Big Banana.  OMG - I don't think I've ever had a fish sandwich that was so delicious.  Hmmm - do you think it was just the salt air?  I don't think so.  It's hard to argue with thick slices of hake  that were dipped into a perfect, perfectly light batter then fried to order.  The fillets were slapped on a buttery, grilled hot dog bun then topped with shredded romaine lettuce, red cabbage and pickled red onions, and served with tartar sauce  loaded with freshly chopped dill.  I'm talking beach food SUPREME!!!!!   Oh, and I just had to get an order of French fries because I watched the guy putting the potatoes through a slicer then another guy fry them to a crisp and toss them in a bowl with salt - to order.  When's the last time you saw someone do that?
I washed it all down with fresh watermelon juice purchased from the taco stand next door.
I took 1/2 hour to lie on the beach and go into the water.  Look, I'm not going to compare Rockaway to the beaches that I mentioned above.  It was a a great day - delicious and refreshing - and just a subway ride away.

We got back on the subway at 86th street - which seems to be the beach area where surfers hang out - but didn't even check out the food at the concession stand there.  Got to save something for the next time.

A week later I met a friend at the 2nd avenue and 14th bustop street where we got on the *select* bus (which makes even fewer stops than the express) and headed down to South Ferry.  We didn't get on the Staten Island ferry, which is right there - but instead, went through the glorious Governor's Island ferry terminal and boarded the ferry headed for the island that Native Americans sold to a Dutchman  in 1637 for a couple of ax heads and a handful of nails.  In 1995 President Clinton designated 22 acres of the island as a national park.   In between the island has lived a storied life.  Check it out.

My friend and I were headed to Cook Out NYC.   This was the 2nd year for this grilled meat (and a few vegetables) and local beer event.  Destined to be an annual showcase for New York restaurants - of a certain style - to vie for best burger, or best hot dog in the show with every kind of pork from grilled bacon to sticky ribs in between.  Oh, and a kimchi tasting, and a few very peculiar - but surprisingly good - shaved ice preparations.

Jimmy Carbone of Jimmy's No. 43, a basement beer joint on east 7th street in Manhattan, one of the organizers of the grand event - maybe the CHIEF organizer.  And, provider of a welcome side dish, salad.

Mama's burgers.

Shaved ice with red beans and colorful rice crisps topped with a squirted pattern of condensed milk.  This quirky treat from Taiwan via The Shaved Ice Shop can be found every Sunday at the Hester Street Fair or at their shop in Chinatown.

There was much more - all washed down with with a pint of Righteous Ale one of the offerings of Brooklyn's own Sixpoint Brewery.     Book this event for next year.  But in the meantime take a trip out to Governor's Island, walk the short 2 miles around the island and experience breathtaking City views.  Then, have a picnic.

 
SUSANSIMONSAYS:    Here's my feeling - I love to take the Staten Island Ferry.  It's a nice ride and you sense that you're going somewhere foreign.  Once you get to the island however - you'll need a car to get around.  Before 9/11 you could take your car over on the ferry - no longer.  The Governor's Island ferry ride is a short one and you barely feel like you've gone anywhere new.  But you have - and what's more you can walk everywhere once you've arrived!

Dog days of winter

Right about now I long for the all too familiar sight of an umbrellaed Sabrett hot dog cart hugging a New York City street corner.  The cold, short-on-sunlight days depress my mind and body to the point that only junk food seems to satisfy.  Oh sure, talk about hearty soups and savory stews all you want - but it's a dirty-water dog that perks me up like nothing else.  Alas,  street corners are very short on hot dog carts these days -  you're more than likely to find a food truck.  The vendor can stay warm inside his metal, mini diner and has the space to offer not only hot dogs, but also cook falafel, shrimp and French fries, cheeseburgers, chicken and rice to order, and have on hand ever-popular breakfast choices; doughnuts and bagels.  It's just not the same.
So, I make my own version of a hot dog with sauerkraut and mustard - with special fries to boot!  This way I can feel a bit less guilty about downing pure junk and select high quality - organic when possible - ingredients for my oh-so gratifying meal.

QUICK SAUERKRAUT

This quick - you could even say finto or fake sauerkraut (it doesn't require pickling time) comes from my book, "Contorni: Authentic Italian Side Dishes for All Seasons".  The original recipe calls for bacon.  I left it out and added a little extra butter and some extra virgin olive oil for this particular application.

Serves 6 as a side dish - will cover at least a dozen hot dogs

1 head green cabbage, 2 to 2 1/4 pounds
2 tablespoons unsalted butter
1 tablespoon extra virgin olive oil
1/2 cup dry white wine
1 1/2 cups vegetable broth or water
2 teaspoons fresh lemon juice
salt and freshly ground pepper to taste
1.   Eliminate the tough outer leaves of the cabbage.  Cut the head into quarters through the stem end, and then cut out the core.  Use a sharp knife or a mandoline to thinly slice crosswise.
2.    In a large skillet or saute pan over medium heat, melt the butter with the olive oil.  Add the cabbage and stir with 2 wooden spoons to ensure that all the cabbage is coated.  Cook for 3 minutes.  Add the wine and broth or water and stir to combine. Lower the heat, cover and simmer from 1 1/2  to 3 hours (much depends on how the cabbage has been sliced).  The liquid should be almost completely absorbed and the cabbage very soft.
3.   Add the lemon juice, and salt and pepper to taste.  Serve immediately or store in the refrigerator for up to a couple of weeks.  Reheat as needed.

ROY'S GRAINY MUSTARD

My friend, Roy Finamore, adapted this highly fragrant and nose-clearly mustard to his taste.  I love having it on hand.  It gives just the right punctuation to any dish - especially a hot dog.

Makes about 2 pints

1 12-ounce bottle stout
1 cup cider vinegar
8 ounces brown mustard seeds
2 ounces black mustard seeds
1 tablespoon salt
1 teaspoon black pepper
1/4 teaspoon ground cinnamon
1/4 teaspoon ground nutmeg
1/4 teaspoon ground cloves
1/4 teaspoon ground allspice

1.  Mix all the ingredients together. Cover the bowl with plastic film and leave at room temperature for 2 days. Add the mixture  to a food processor  and process until thick - about 3 minutes. 
2.  Store in 1/2 pint Mason jars.  The mustard will keep, refrigerated, for years.

OVEN FRIED TURNIPS

Now, here's a really good twist on fries.  I find these oven fries instantly appealing.  Turnips are definitely an acquired taste.  They almost sting at first bite  - but rapidly fill your mouth with pure earthy sweetness.   The addition of Parmesan cheese adds a kind of salty crust to the fries - a perfect antidote to the sweet interior.

Serves 4 - 6

2 - 2 1/4 pounds large turnips or rutabagas
2 tablespoons olive oil
1/3 cup grated Parmesan cheese
1/2 teaspoon coarse salt
1/2 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

1.   Preheat the oven to 350 degrees F.
2.   Peel the turnips. Cut into 1/4 - 1/2 -inch sticks.   Place on a baking sheet with sides or a jelly roll pan.  Add the olive oil, Parmesan cheese, salt and pepper.  Use your hands to evenly coat the turnips with all the ingredients.
3.   Bake, turning every 20 minutes until each piece is golden brown on the outside and soft in the center, about 1 hour.
4.  Serve immediately.  Leftovers are reheated with great succcess!

SUSANSIMONSAYS:   Nothing beats the doldrums of winter like a dog loaded with homemade sauerkraut, Roy's grainy mustard on a well-toasted bun.